Imogen Lemm

MECHANISM – the concept that has inspired this collection. It draws on industrial craftsmanship and the evolution of machinery into the modern day to where humans have become near redundant.

‘’A SYSTEM OF PARTS WORKING TOGTHER IN A MACHINE; A PIECE OF MACHINERY’’

My tailoring-focussed collection reflects the concept through a strong, structured and angular aesthetic whilst also applying the definition of MECHANISM to the layering of materials that support a tailored coat and the systematic processes implemented to professionally finish each garment. The concept research progressed to the area in which I grew up: the Black Country, which in turn lead me to discover my personal connection the concept through my great grandad being a steel worker and my father an engineer.

My collection developed from a plethora of 3D sampling. This involved creative pattern cutting in response to the strong lines and angles identified in my concept imagery, encompassing circular, triangular and trapezium shaped structures. These techniques developed into design features and experimentation of placement on the body, with the selected details being realised in the final collection. This included: crisp 3D trapeziums, voluminous pleated sleeves, and subtler angular panelling. As these techniques naturally lead to the introduction of statement pieces in the collection, the pairing pieces could be more traditional, incorporating subtler design features.

I strived to achieve a strong definition in the fit of the collection to give the wearer confidence, whilst the dark, bold pieces provided an androgynous overall aesthetic. My collection required the development of complex internal structures that best held the intended shapes in the chosen fabric, as the wools in particular were weightier than the calico toiles therefore needing extra support to achieve the desired outcome. This resulted in a combination of canvas and coutil support systems being implemented into the garments.

The colour palette is minimal meaning the choice of textural differences between the fabrics had to be considered in more detail. Multiple black fabrics were selected but these were balanced with a Wool Flannel Pinstripe, and a slightly metallic grey wool mix. The controlled use of the blue/grey accent colour, identified in the metallic machinery, provides difference to the otherwise very dark selection of fabrics, and helped highlight the layering within a look. I strove for high-quality finishes in this collection whilst incorporating a range of techniques and understanding what finishings were the most appropriate for each fabric. Full lining felled in, binding seams, French seaming and bagging out were some methods used in the finishings of my collection.

Having specialised in tailoring and 3D pattern cutting methods in my final year of study on Fashion Atelier, I will explore the industries these skills can lead into with my career aspiration being in bespoke tailoring. The goals to challenge and push myself and the skills acquired on Atelier have defined my MECHANISM COLLECTION.